Piazza Santa Croce has always been the home of this game and is known as “giuoco del calcio fiorentino,” or simply as Calcio (which means “kick” in Italian). The teams are made up of four Datori indietro (goalkeepers), 3 Datori innanzi (fullbacks), 5 Sconciatori (halfbacks), and 15 Innanzi o Corridori (forwards). Calcio Storico is a source of great pride in Florence, although there is opposition from those who do not like its violence, and it is currently undergoing resurgence, especially among younger people. Of course, as in any sport, even in the Calcio Storico Fiorentino, rules abound and have to be respected. The players endure the concussions and lacerations and fractures simply because it is what Florentines have always done. The appeal of calcio storico is multilayered. Each team has 27 players, and no substitutions are allowed for injured or expelled players. It should be said: No one has ever died during a modern calcio storico match. During the 1500s, the game became notorious beyond Italy for its violent nature. So, this is our foe. “In 2020, it’s not the troops; it’s the virus. The four teams of the historical neighborhoods of the city play against each other, first in two semi-finals, then in a final match to determine the winner. The final match is always played on June 24 (5 p.m.) in grand style on Florence’s feast day for its patron saint, St. John the Baptist. All rights reserved. Many players, I was told when I first visited, actually fear showering after a match more than playing in one. The rules were established in 1580 which allowed a … Punching, elbowing, and martial arts are allowed. This game was probably already being played in the 15th century, as evidenced by the fact that certain matches occurred on a completely frozen-over Arno river in 1490. Stefano, the restaurant owner, says that he sometimes marvels at the fact that he is known more in Florence for being a calciante than for running a renowned restaurant or even serving as a councilman. Calcio Storico is football like you’ve never seen before! Florence Inferno is a blog about the Florentine mysteries, symbols, and places that are mentioned in Dan Brown’s latest novel Inferno, and much more about the city. It intrigued me as a sort of quirky sports novelty. The Calcio Storico Fiorentino is a combination of soccer, rugby and big time wrestling that originated in 16th century Florence and is played today in historical costume in Florence, the city in which Dan Brown’s latest novel, Inferno, is set. “There is no real reason why anyone should do this,” he continues. This is a common sentiment. Calcio storico games often break out into fist fights Getty. Dating back to the 16th century and still played every summer in Florence. Calcio fiorentino, also known as calico storico which means historic football, and giuoco del calcio fiorentino (Florentine kick game). It is an early form of football which was developed in 16th century Italy. The goals are placed along the shorter sides of the pitch. ANSA/AP Photo. They do not actively participate in the game, but can organize their teams and sometimes act as referees, mainly to calm their players down or to stop fights. To walk in the parade and have people shout for you and women reach out to touch you as you walk by. The official rules of calcio storico were written in 1580 by Giovanni de Bardi, a count from Florence. (Related: These interactive renderings explore stadiums of the past and the future.). Symbols and places mentioned in Dan Brown’s novel Inferno, and much more about Florence, By clicking on "Subscribe" you agree to receive our newsletter. The final match is played every year on June 24, the feast day for St. John the Baptist, Florence’s patron saint. The first was written by the noble Giovanni de’ Bardi in the late 16th century: each team must have twenty - players, both hands and feet can be used, the game is … This means respect for the adversary, which means not taking advantage if the adversary is on the ground or coming up from behind. Calcio Storico in Florence History of Calcio Storico. But we must be able to do something.”. His bakery is named Pugi, and he bakes a bread so soft and fluffy, with oil and coarse salt married so perfectly, that it is famous all over Tuscany. The field … Originating from the ancient harpastum, a ball game played in the Roman Empire, Calcio Storico was played in teams of 27, more than double compared to modern-day soccer. As just one example, tourism brought nearly $50 million in revenue to the city last year and this year that number is expected to be virtually zero. Initially, the thought was that this year’s matches would be moved to the fall, possibly sometime in September. This sport is super violent, really intense and a bit confusing to watch but obviously really exciting. Once widely played, the sport is thought to have started in the Piazza Santa Croce in Florence. In modern times, the game is played in June, with the finals played on June 24, the feast day of St. John the Baptist. Invented by rich aristocreats, Calcio was originally just played by just the higher social class and took place every night between Epiphany and Lent. The origins of Calico Storico can vary depending on who is doing the telling. Many consider the game to be a revival of the ancient Roman game of harpastum.There are stories that suggest that the famous Arno river, that passes through Florence, was frozen solid in 1490 and a variation of Calcio Storico was played on it. 2020 National Geographic Partners, LLC. Others, like Andrea Piras, who is a marketing executive for a high-end hotel, have more white-collar jobs. Calcio Storico is a variation of football which is a combination of soccer, rugby, and wrestling. Yet while Nicco’s work is rewarding and steady enough, there is something missing from his life during this strange time that he cannot replace with just takeout. It surely is. “The situation is tragicomic,” he tells me, raising his palms. Throwing of punches, elbows, and headbutts are all legal according to official rules, as is choking an opponent. (Related: Find out why two trees get married every year in southern Italy.). Our people are frightened. Goal posts are set at opposing ends of two even squares and players must get the ball, which is launched into the field from the centre line, over the opposing team’s net “by any means necessary”. Nicco told me back then that when he first participated in calcio storico, the sensation was nothing less than “the feeling of being a man.”. The game was originally played by rich aristocrats, with popes participating in the action too. © 1996-2015 National Geographic Society, © 2015- Referees do exist in calcio storico, but they lean more toward decorative than functional. When it became clear the pandemic would make playing impossible this June, the wound cut deep. “I think about this and wonder if we should play at all.”. Yes, it is a violent game as anything goes and there are no rules except for one: respect for the adversary. Calcio Storico is an ancient form of football played each year in Florence, Italy, where teams of 27 try to get the ball to the opponents' goal 'by any means necessary'. The teams are made up of four Datori indietro (goalkeepers), 3 Datori innanzi (fullbacks), 5 Sconciatori (halfbacks), and 15 Innanzi o Corridori (forwards). The fighting, frankly, is endless, and this is by design. “And anyway it’s not like we are playing with dolls out there.”. There are, nominally, positions. Home > List > Football > Medieval Football > Calcio Fiorentino. Of course he will. Calcio Storico—calcio, meaning soccer for the fellow Americans—feels more like a rugby death match that began in the 16th Century. “In 1530, the enemy was the troops,” Andrea says during a video interview last month, sighing as he rolls out a cigarette. CALCIO STORICO A Multimedia piece by David Airob, David Ramos & José Bautista _____ Calcio Storico Fiorentino is an early form of football, originating in the 1500’s, which is still played today in Florence, Italy. A moment later, though, when I ask if he would ever consider suggesting the games be canceled, Nicco laughs, long and loud. The sport may have started as a revival of the Roman sport called harpastum, which was most likely played by two even-numbered teams on the sandy ground using a large ball stuffed with rags or leather, and the objective of which was to get the ball into the opponent’s side of the field, by any means necessary. It is a chance to be a protagonist.”. Kicks to the head and sucker-punches are moves strictly forbidden in this game. “There have always been incidents,” says Maurizio Conti, an architect who played for the Azzurri from 1972 to 1988. On this day, a splendid parade in historical costume starts in Piazza Santa Maria Novella and passes through the city center on its way to Piazza Santa Croce. The field is somewhat set up like a soccer field, with go… The Rossi of Santa Maria Novella celebrate their victory in a 2019 semifinal match in front of the Basilica di Santa Croce. This year’s game could be delayed until February 2021. But kicks to the head are forbidden, as are fights of two or more against one. Calcio storico matters, to be sure. He makes sure that the games runs smoothly, stepping into the field only to maintain discipline and reestablish order in case of a fight on the field. “The person that kicked me in the head actually became the godfather to one of my daughters,” he adds, somewhat off-handedly. Two teams of 27 players – often unannounced until match day – take to the sand-covered field for 50-minute matches. Calcio Storico Fiorentino originated in 16th century Florence and was invented by rich aristocrats. The official rules of calcio storico were written in 1580 by Giovanni de Bardi, a count from Florence. Discover Calcio Storico, the traditional yet brutal sport that has moved Florence for centuries. Andrea knows that might sound a little dramatic; there are, clearly, many different things concerning Florentines right now. The aim of the game is to score more points (called “cacce“) than the opposing team. There is no way. When we connect again last month, he says that even though the teams are not able to hold actual practices right now, he has been running and “lifting an armchair in the house” anyway (the chair weighs about 30 pounds) because he has an obligation to stay in shape. It could have been played as early as 59 A.D., when Fiorenza (historic Florence) was founded by retired soldiers and their families. Matches last 50 minutes and are played on a field that is covered in sand and twice as long as it is wide (approximately 80 x 40 meters ). Andrea Vannucci, a deputy mayor who oversees city traditions, is similarly flummoxed by what could be done but says he keeps coming back to the history of the game itself. “It’s sort of hard to put into words what it means,” Nicco says. Calcio storico is believed to date back as far as the late 1400s, but its most famous moment came in 1530, when Florentines went ahead and played the game despite the fact their city was under siege from the army of Holy Roman Emperor Charles V. That defiance–the commitment to maintaining the tradition even while under attack–became a part of the game’s majesty. Alarming as that might sound, these things, it seems, just happen. Read our, The True Story of the Italian Liqueur Limoncello, From Kandinsky to Pollock at Palazzo Strozzi, Florence, Easter: Religious and Culinary Traditions in Florence, Italy. The teams, identified by colors, face each other in matches that look vaguely like rugby games, but only if rugby was staged on a giant sandpit in an ancient piazza and involved period costumes, bare-knuckle street fighting, and a general tolerance for maiming. It’s when we get ready to fight.”. It is also named Calcio in Costume as the footballers must wear medieval costumes for the game, according to the tradition that was established back … Calcio storico allows the use of a wide range of strikes against opponents. Calcio storico fiorentino, Florence: See 27 reviews, articles, and 63 photos of Calcio storico fiorentino, ranked No.151 on Tripadvisor among 658 attractions in Florence. But the raw simplicity of the game itself is also a significant allure: Two teams of 27 players score points by throwing a ball into a long trough that sits behind each end line. Some, like Nicco, work in bakeries or restaurants or construction sites. Visit a local winery and vineyards to learn about traditional production methods, and taste different regional varietals along with Tuscan specialties like salami and cheese. But Florence has preserved a most interesting reminder of its bellicose past, the “calcio storico fiorentino – historical Florentine soccer”, a no-holds-barred soccer game with very few rules and a lot of violence, which forms part of the city’s annual celebration of its patron saint, John the Baptist. Picture: Sbandierator by Lorenzo Blangiardi CC BY-ND 2.0. Locals consider it a great honor to play in these games. “The only reason is because it is a chance to be a star. Traditionally the winning team received a calf (to butcher) in celebration, though more recently that has changed to just a free dinner and a small drape commemorating that year’s tournament. “When I was a kid, I saw the calcianti as heroes, as brave men,” he says. People call it schiacciata “del Pugi” simply because there is nothing made anywhere else quite like it. Or a sommommolo, which has its roots in a word for a type of bread shaped like a fist and is a delightful way to refer to one player knocking out another. Required fields are marked *. He really has no choice. The Captain and Standard B… Passing is difficult and even though most players wrap layers of tape around their waistbands so that it is harder for an opponent to grab them, scrums are constant. The official rules of calcio were written for the first time in 1580 by Giovanni de Bardi, a count from Florence. Calcio Fiorentino / Calico Storico. Matches last 50 grueling minutes, with players engaging in hand-to-hand combat. Its combative style requires a unique type of athleticism from its players. The game ends after 50 minutes, and the team that scored the most cacce wins. There are a few rules, but choking, punching, and are allowed, making Calcio Storico a unique sport experience of medieval brutality. The players are roughly split into three lines, and the innanzi, or runners, are the ones who try to infiltrate the other team’s half and score a caccia, or goal. From this moment, the players try by any means necessary to get the ball into the opponents’ goal, also called caccia. At this point, you may be wondering how it could ever be possible to stage an event like this–that is, an event where people are frequently covered in the bodily fluids of others–in a way that is safe and sanitary. Men of all ages and occupations seize this responsibility, many following what their fathers and grandfathers did before them. Niccolò Innocenti is a baker in Florence. The "Calcio Storico”, historical football, is a medieval ancestor of a fusion between modern rugby, street fighting and football. There are plenty of eye-catching components to it, including the pomp of the parade and the silky, striped, historically appropriate pants the players wear. Essential Restrictions. It involved continuous body to body and head to head contact for the possession of the ball and was very popular among soldiers who spread it throughout various regions of the Roman Empire. The official rules of calcio were written for the first time in 1580 by Giovanni de Bardi, a count from Florence. Their background doesn’t matter; all who step into the dirt do it only out of love. The winning team used to receive a Chianina, a type of cow. Calcio fiorentino (also known as calcio storico "historic football") is an early form of football (soccer and rugby) that originated in 16th-century Italy. Matches last 50 minutesand are played on a field that is covered in sand and twice as long as it is wide (approximately 80 x 40 meters ). Stefano owns a celebrated Florence restaurant, Trattoria 4 Leoni (4 Lions), and has a leathery face with white hair and a dark beard. This delightful Darwinian twist means that if a player is knocked out of the game–like, say, when Stefano was carted off after his best friend kicked him senseless–his team must play a man short. And we have to figure out what we can do to give hope to the city again.”. Renzo was “a little bit alarmed” by the assault but recovered and welcomed his opponents into his store shortly afterward because, for calcianti, the injuries sustained are “like medals,” Maurizio says. The rules of the Calcio Storico Fiorentino. We also offer a guided Inferno walking tour, which follows the footsteps of Robert and Sienna, as well as an an eBook with an audio version. “What if they get hurt and can’t go find another job?” Nicco, the baker, says. Members of the Rossi team arrive for a semifinal match in 2018. To cheer for the Azzurri (Blues) of Santa Croce; or the Rossi (Reds) of Santa Maria Novella; or the Bianchi (Whites) of Santo Spirito; or the Verdi (Greens) of San Giovanni is something close to a civic duty. “If you take away my direct family, then there’s calcio storico,” says Niccolò Innocenti, a baker and longtime calciante. The referee, above everyone else, is the Master of the Field. “Normally, I’m feeling a lot of tension and anticipation at this period of the year,” he tells me. I was living in Paris as a correspondent for the New York Times and went to Florence to do a story about calcio storico, an event I’d seen snippets of in online videos. The players felt it was all they could do. It is a reasonable question. Andrea Piras, the marketing executive, says he always makes a point of mentioning during meetings or job interviews that he plays calcio storico–mostly to explain the scars or scrapes that might be on his face–and he revels in the questions and wonder it inspires. It did not take long to realize that locals see it very differently. If the attacker shoots over the goal bar, the opposite team gain an half point (“mezza-caccia”). (Related: Explore Italy’s lesser-known UNESCO heritage sites.). Calcio storico doesn't have many rules limiting contact, although striking an opponent from behind is prohibited. Others are concerned that playing at all might be too risky, particularly since many players (like many Florentines) have become unemployed during the lockdown. The four teams are: Santa Croce (blue), Santo Spirito (white), Santa Maria Novella (red), and San Giovanni (green). There are four teams representing the four historical neighborhoods that compete against each other to reach the finals. “We cannot have a parade with masks. The official rules of calcio were written for the first … Fighting is a key element of calcio storico. The official rules of the Calcio Storico were first published in 1580 by Giovanni de’ Bardi, a Florentine count. Treat your taste buds to the flavors of Italy’s famous Chianti wine region on a half-day tour through the Tuscan countryside from Florence. Nicco is proud of his bread, and he has managed to stay busy handling delivery orders during the past few months of coronavirus lockdown in Italy. It is only in the shower, you see, when the pulse slows and the water hits the flesh that one becomes acutely aware of all the places his skin has been shredded or torn. Dating back to the 15th century, this early form of the game is brutal. “This is a season that we have been training for. The game may have started as a revival of the Roman sport of harpastum. Each team has 27 players, and no substitutions are allowed for injured or expelled players. Live webinar to learn about the art, history and architecture of Florence. Either way, there is no money paid to calcianti for participating, no trophy raised after the final match. The official rules of the Calcio Storico were first published in 1580 by Giovanni de’ Bardi, a Florentine count. Calcio storico is MMA-meets-rugby, an orgy of violence that takes place annually in Florence via three games between four teams representing the city’s primary districts. As an outsider to the of the Italian city of Florence it is hard to make sense of the violence, dirt and hype that surrounds the sport known as Calcio Storico (translated to “historic football“), but every year locals come in droves to watch the annual Fight Club Firenze. by ... Alas, there is an extensive list of rules to keep injuries to a minimum. The official rules of calcio were published for the first time in 1580 by Giovanni de' Bardi, a Florentine count. A white line divides the field into two identical squares, and a goal net runs the width of each end. He is a Florentine. I first met Nicco and a slew of other calcianti about five years ago. Flag bearers march in the opening ceremony of the 2009 calcio storico final in Piazza Santa Croce. And, because of that, leaders like Andrea Vannucci and Filippo Giovannelli are determined to find a way to avoid wiping out the 2020 calcio storico tournament altogether. The square field is covered in dirt to “return” to those times when it was just a dirt square (today it is covered in stone) and to recreate the setting. Calcio storico, translated literally as “historic football,” is an annual tournament held in front of thousands of fans that features teams from each of Florence’s four classical neighborhoods. “If you take away my direct family, then there’s calcio storico–it’s my second family, even more than my store.”. It is the ancient code of honor, chivalry. The Captain and Standard Bearer’s tent sits at the center of the goal net. Maurizio smiles as he recalls the famous story of his friend, Renzo Carli, who had part of his ear bitten off during a tournament game. “For us,” Andrea says, “it is like losing Christmas.”. The rules of Calcio Storico Fiorentino As per tradition, before each match begins, trumpet fanfares, marching drums and flag-throwers march into the Piazza, as well as costumed dignitaries in traditional renaissance era colors representative of their designated teams. As many Italians struggle with restarting the very basic components of their lives, Florentines in particular are also reckoning with the upending of a vicious, visceral (the locals might prefer “passionate”) tradition that has been part of their city’s bones for centuries despite being unknown to most travelers. And to be a calciante–a player who represents his color with pride and drive and purpose–is nothing less than an honor. The playing field is a giant sandpit with a narrow trough running the width of each end that constitutes the goal. He laughs. Games last 50 minutes, though they feel much longer, largely because the deep sand keeps the players’ movements from getting much faster than a plod. This isn’t some kind of weird cosplay fight club (though no one will ever deny the violence is appealing), but rather an event emblematic of Florence’s spirit. Your email address will not be published. A white line divides the field into two identical squares, and a goal net runs the width of each end. “I hope that is still what we represent to a lot of people now.”. Their main job is to make sure that multiple players on the same team are not ganging up on any individual opponent. But it is also not an overstatement to say that calcio storico is so ingrained in Florence’s society that it can serve as a bellwether of the city’s determination. But there was, once, a spleen that required removal, and it is not uncommon for the medics stationed alongside the field to bring out their stretchers six or seven (or eight or nine) times in a given game. Originally the calcio (which is also the name for modern day football/ soccer in Italy) was played for rich The matches in the Calcio Storico last 50 minutes in a Sandy field. To watch the parade that precedes the final, always held on June 24, the city’s feast day for St. John the Baptist, is an age-old pleasure for Florentines. We cannot have a game without grappling. Nicco is not alone. This year, due to the pandemic, the sport has been postponed as locals ponder the game’s future. However, the prize has been reduced to a free dinner for the winning team; the players earn no other form of compensation. “If they play–it doesn’t matter the time–I will bend my will and go,” he says, and then he shrugs. Florentines have played calcio storico, or “historic football,” since the 15th century. The optimal strategy in calcio storico is for players to try to incapacitate as many of their opponents as possible through punches, kicks, takedowns, headlocks, stomps, and other assorted mayhem, because the rules of the game prohibit substitutions. The game starts when the Pallaio throws the ball towards the center line, followed by the firing of a small cannon, which signals the beginning of the contest. The two semifinals are played over a weekend in June. Calcio Storico Fiorentino is an early form of football, originating in the 1500’s, which is still played today in Florence, Italy. Tackling from behind is allowed, however. Still, the action is perpetual, the players slamming hazily into each other and pin-balling from one melee to another. 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